Additional Care Instructions

Harris Lawn & Landscape

Additional Care Instructions

We are committed to customer service and even after we have left, want to make sure you and your new investment are well taken care of! Please make note of certain special needs that your investment may require. If at anytime you have additional questions, or would like some more information of our post service care programs, do not hesitate to reach out!

Hydroseed & Overseed Instructions

For Proper Lawn Maintenance, Please Note:

You may walk on the lawn to move sprinklers, but keep non-essential foot traffic to an absolute minimum during the initial establishment period
The information below is meant simply for a general rule of thumb. Shady areas may need less water, and sunny areas may need more attention.
Do not water at night or late in the evenings. New grass is susceptible to disease, which is encouraged by prolonged periods of being wet.
Make sure to water around the edges, and especially along pavement surfaces. These areas heat up and dry up faster.

Lawn Maintenance After Installation

After installation, water the area thoroughly twice daily with any conventional sprinkler until the soil is moist. The best time to water is early in the morning and in the late afternoon. During hot days, you may need to water more than twice.
The first two weeks are the most important. Pay close attention to the soil and try to keep it moist at all times when possible.
Avoid water run-off and puddling.
Gradually decrease the frequency of watering to promote deeper rooting.
Once Grass has reached a height of 5 inches it is ready to be cut for the first time. Mowing height should be at 3.5 inches.
Once established, your new lawn should be getting about 1″ of water a week from rainfall and supplemental means. This is just a general rule of thumb however, shady areas may need less water, and sunny areas may need more water.

Additional notes

Never cut more then 1/3 of the grass blade with any one cutting and use sharp blades. Dull blades will create at rough cut which makes new grass susceptible to disease.
As with all lawns, a fertilization program will encourage establishing and maintaining thicker and healthier lawn. As part of creating a healthy lawn it is also suggested to apply routine weed control application to minimize unwanted and competing plants. For the best lawn maintenance, fertilizer can be applied after 30 days. Weed & Feed can be applied after 90 days.
Weed management is CRUTIAL during the first year to establish the grass and prevent weeds from choking out new seedlings, especially for lawns planted in the spring/summer. Weeds WILL grow and close monitoring is important. Some products such as Tenacity can be sprayed directly over new lawns to kill weeds that have started to grow and prevent future weeds from germinating without harming the young grass. An application of such is highly encouraged. Pease consult us or another licenced professional before applying any chemicals to the lawn.
A soil sample is highly encouraged, and can help create a fine tuned “diet” for your lawn. For just $15, UMASS Stockbridge will test your soil for the basics. Click here for more information.

Sod Instructions

For Proper Lawn Maintenance, Please Note:

You may walk on the lawn to move sprinklers, but keep non-essential foot traffic to an absolute minimum during the initial establishment period
If the edges between sod pull apart or are separating, you are not applying enough water. The sod is shrinking and pulling apart.
Do not water late at night. New grass is susceptible to disease, which is encouraged by prolonged periods of being wet.
Make sure to water around the edges, and especially along pavement surfaces. These areas heat up and dry up faster.

Day 1

Congratulations on your new lawn! I know your lawn looks GREAT right now, and you cant wait to let the dogs run around, play with the kids, or invite your friends over for a cookout, but I am going to tell you to admire your new lawn from a distance for a while. The sod has been through ALOT of stress today. It was cut from a sod farm in Rhode Island early this morning, put on a truck, shipped all the way and delivered to your house, and was installed by the fast working team members at Harris Lawn & Landscape. Throughout the day, we have been keeping the palletized sod covered to protect the roots from the sun, and watering the sod around the clock to keep everything moist. Now that everything has been cut, and installed, it is time to give the new sod a DEEP watering. I want you to run your irrigation until the sod is soaked and spongy to the step. The new sod is thirsty and will soak up this water like a sponge.

First 2 Weeks

The key to establishing new sod is to keep it properly watered for the first month. The new sod should be kept thoroughly wet to a depth of 4″ to 6″ and watered 2 times a day during the first 7 to 14 days. Lift a corner of the sod to determine the depth of moisture. In the first week, it is very important to keep the new sod damp. During this time stay off the sod so it can take root and you do not sink in and leave depressions from your foot steps. During hot weather, sprinklers should run several times a day so the new sod never dries out. If allowed to dry out, the sod will shrink, brown, and can die. The roots of your new sod will penetrate the soil faster and root down sooner if properly watered. At the end of week two your lawn may be ready to mow. When the grass has reached 5″ in height it is ready. Hold off on watering the day before to let the grass dry out, then cut at 3.5″. Never take off more than 1/3 of the height at a time.

Weeks 3 & 4

The following 2 weeks are used to transition from frequent daily watering to fewer cycles per day and increase the number of days between waterings. During week 3, reduce waterings to once per day for best lawn maintenance. By week 4, water 1 to 2 times every other day. After week 4, your new yard should be ready to go 2 to 3 days between watering. Water your lawn in the evening or early morning when less evaporation occurs. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, so depending on the season and amount of rainfall you may need to water more or less. By week 4 your new lawn should be getting about 1″ of water a week, between rainfall and other means. This is just a general rule of thumb however, shady areas may need less water, and sunny areas may need more water.

Lawn Maintenance for the Rest of the Season

Your new lawn will need more water the first growing season and especially the first 6 months. As roots grow deeper over the course of a year, it will need less water. If your lawn looks dry, it probably needs watering. A general rule of thumb is to aim for 1″ of water per week. Keep your mower at 3-3.5″ depending on the season, and be careful not to take off more than 1/3 of its height at a time. Use sharp blades and do not cut when wet. As part of creating a healthy lawn it is also suggested to apply routine weed control application to minimize unwanted and competing plants. Fertilizer can be applied after 30 days. Weed & Feed can be applied after 90 days. Wait 6 months to aerate and 1 year to de-thatch.

Plantings

New Plantings Need Water

The roots of newly planted trees and shrubs must be kept steadily moist, but not soggy, as the developing roots establish in new soil. At planting, water thoroughly to soak the roots and to settle the new soil around the root mass.

The amount of supplemental water needed each week during the first season after planting depends on rainfall, temperature, wind and soil conditions. If less than one inch of rain has fallen in five to seven days, the plants must be watered or they may not survive.

One of the most critical times for supplementing rainfall is in the fall months. Maintain weekly watering, as needed, until the ground freezes.

How Much Water?

Check the moisture level of your soil occasionally by putting your fingers under the mulch or rock and into the soil. You’ll be able to tell if you are watering too much or too little that way. The soil should not be soaking wet, and you should occasionally allow it to mostly dry out so air can enter.

In general, ten gallons of water applied twice a week will wet a 20” – 24” root ball and provide the equivalent of one inch of rainfall.

Measure the amount of water you apply by filling a container of known volume with water running slowly from a hose with no nozzle. For instance, if it takes five minutes for the water to fill a two-gallon watering can, you know that it will take twenty-five minutes to apply ten-gallons of water with the hose.

Run the Water at a Consistent Rate Each Time

Set a kitchen timer to tell you when to stop.

Keep the root mass moist. It will dry out more quickly than the surrounding back-filled soil. Monitor the soil moisture to a depth of twelve inches by probing gently with a spade. Test for moisture with your fingers.

Water Wisdom for Lawn Maintenance

Water slowly, avoid runoff.
Make sure water penetrates deeply to establish healthy roots.
Avoid frequent, light sprinkling.
Water the plants in your landscape in early morning or late afternoon. Do not water during the hottest part of the day or too late in the evening, so your plants can dry off before nightfall.
Measure rate of flow from your hose, or use a can or bucket of known volume.
Account for rainfall and weather conditions.
Sandy, dry soils need more water
Check soil moisture by physical inspection.
Too much water can kill plants; soil should never be soggy. Roots need air as well as water.

Flower and Vegetable Gardens

Water flower and vegetable transplants with 1½ quarts of water and larger perennials with three quarts of water at planting. Use less water if the soil is heavy and/or poorly drained. Garden plants also require one inch of rain, or supplemental water every five to seven days.

Mulch Conserves Water

Mulch new perennials, shrubs, trees at planting time to conserve moisture and to suppress grass and weeds. This encourages fine root development and healthy growth.

Additional Notes

After 1 month plants should be partially rooted in and it is best to remove any supporting straps or guide wires.
Pruning is a crucial step to the longevity and health of plants. Depending the specific plant, pruning schedules and procedures will vary. Upon request, a pruning schedule can be provided to obtain maximum plant health.
All plants should be fertilized at least once a year by method of slow release deep root feeding.
Some plants depending on variety and species may need to be protected during the winter months to ensure a quick recovery from cold weather dormancy.